Winemaker: John Nagorcka
Where: Tarrington, Western Victoria, Australia
Size: 280 ha of land, 8 ha of high density planted vines
Main Varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Riesling, Semillon & Sauvignon Blanc
Viticulture: Australian Demeter Biodynamic and permaculture
Quick note: An absolute OG of Australian Biodynamic winemakers. Worked permaculture, Demeter and wholistic since 1990
One of the absolute OG’s of Australian Biodynamic winemakers. Worked permaculture, Demeter and wholistic since John & Jennifer’s takeover of the family farm in 1990. It is located nearly a 4-hour-drive west from Melbourne, and with only 70km from the southwest coast of Victoria it actually sits 250m above sea level.
The story of first meeting John and visiting Hochkirch is shrouded in the mystery of the wines. For years, I had glimpses of the labels in obscure shops and lists, whispers about Demeter and farming, and finally through Jasper at Commune of Buttons I got John's phone number and was able to tee up a visit.
I was absolutely blown away, from the first handshake, to the first two hours we stood and discussed wine, farming, life goals, past learnings, Australian Demeter, Steiner and all themes in between. Of course, the wines that followed echoed John's visions and hopes and dreams. Wines of substance, electricity and energy, flavourful! Post tasting we hopped on the quad bike and went to see the farm and vineyards, the tall eucalypts swaying, sunshine beating down and the vines in the most incredible dark volcanic soil!!
With over 280 hectares of farmland, John & Jennifer have created a working farm, with 8 hectares of vines; Pinot, Syrah, Riesling, Semillon/Sauvignon and Chardonnay, alongside raising sheep for wool, cattle for meat and growing cereal crops. In the vineyard, vines are quite close planted at 5-6,000 vines/ha on a North facing slope. A low trellis quite close to the ground takes advantage of summer warmth. All vines are dry grown, hand pruned and harvested by hand. John’s biodynamic practices ensure fruit with better phenolic maturity at lower sugar levels and with better acid balance.
All fruit is vinified naturally with natural yeast, most whites have extended skin contact and are pressed mid-ferment & aged over winter in large format oak. Reds are fermented in open vats with regular plunging and long post ferment maceration, then left in smaller old oak barrels for up to 15 months. All wines bottled unfiltered under gravity, a minimal addition of sulphur dioxide before bottling can sometimes be made.
These wines inspire a cult following for a reason, and it is a joy to represent them in Denmark.
