Winemaker: Stefan Wellanschitz
Where: Neckenmarkt, Burgenland, Austria
Size: 10 ha under vine and a small oak forest nearby
Main Varieties: Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Chardonnay, Furmint, Blaufränkisch & Pinot Noir
Quick notes: The region has swapped between Hungary & Austria in the last 150+ years, Kolfok is regional dialect for a misfit or rebel, high altitude for the region 500m, schist and limestone soils and long lees aging in large Austrian oak
This family winery dates back to the early 19th century, to a time when this part of Burgenland was still Hungarian. In 2013, Stefan Wellanschitz, the new generation of the family, decided to do things a little differently. This marked the start of Kolfok.
The Wellanschitz family label still exists, but Kolfok has completely embodied a modern approach to winemaking. The name itself ‘Kolfok’ in old Austo-Hungarian dialect translates to something like ‘uncommon thinker’ or someone who questions conventional thought. The vineyards around Neckenmarkt sit at elevations between roughly 500-600m above sea level and are farmed organically. The soils are diverse and strongly shaped by this elevation. Higher sites contain schist, gneiss and limestone, while lower vineyards show ferrous loam and volcanic clay. Some parcels are planted at high density, with vines growing closely against one another to encourage natural competition. Yields are intentionally low, with the focus firmly on producing honest, healthy and expressive fruit.
In the cellar, the approach is low-intervention and guided by gravity rather than pumps. Fermentation and élevage take place in traditional thick Austrian oak barrels — 600 L Halbstück and 1200 L Stück. The wines typically spend extended time on lees, depending on the cuvée, and sulphur use ranges from very low to none added.
Both the whites and reds from Stefan absolutely shine with energy, they’re all pure and precise, whether it’s the entry Querschnitt Weiss - Grüner Veltliner, or the deep and intense Güterweg Blaufränkisch, they all show tension and longevity. We also always adore a winemaker who knows how to live life, and Stefan’s wife Eli has just joined the winery full time so both absolutely bring the party wherever they go!